3 Zinnen 2026

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3 Zinnen 2026

20260126

Exploring the world means traveling. And travel requires traveling days of which this is one. The transfer today started in Kirchberg, Austria, and ended at the Caravan Park Sexten, Italy. It took 3 buses and 1 train ride.

Ron was a stellar travel partner after I shared that if we left the house by 8:15AM we could get to our destination 3 hours earlier. He was packed and at the door for a timely departure. We arrived 200 meters later at the bus stop preceeding by only one skier. Fifteen minutes later when the bus arrived we found our selves standing like penguins in a huddle except that it more closely resembled a huddle of 55+ year old grey men with skis. (My there are plenty of us ol' farts!) We managed to all cram onto the bus. I found it difficult because I had my skis in the ski bag and a luggage backpack that protruded a couple of feet behind me. This makes it impossible to sit down and I'm sure I'm smashing into people behind me each time I make the slightest turn. The number of skiers on the bus ebbed and flowed as it made it's way from gondola to town and back to the next gondola on it's way down the valley. A couple of working ladies got on; the crowds of skiers must be their norm as they made no mind of the throngs. We eventually completed our first leg of the journey at the Kitzbübel train/bus depot.

Our wait in Kitzbübel was about 40 minutes. It was cool to be standing about outside as one would hope for in winter. The driver of the regional bus to Lienz took his smoke break during the scheduled layover. It was cash only for the ticket which I found a slight surprise in this day of credit card machines even in the volcanic wastelands of Iceland. It was only Ron, myself, and a couple planning to get off at some unschedule destination along the route to go ice climbing. We past the town of Jochberg where we'd skied to just yesterday. The road climbed up to a pass and then dropped steeply down into the beautiful valley with the town of Mittersill. The road was built perched nearly on tree lined cliffs on the decent. Ron commented that he hoped the breaks had been recently serviced. From Mittersill the road climbed up another valley. Just before entering a two lane tunnel of roughly 3 miles in length, there were a number of 200+ meter high icefalls. Climbers were ascending at least one of them. On the south side of the tunnel we entered a valley with a Nordic ski course. The bus stopped here to let the ice climbing couple off. Unlike the area around Kirchberg, there had been a recent snowfall of several inches giving a pristine look to the jagged mountains and stands of trees. On both sides of the tunnel were numerous snowsheds to keep avalanches from blocking to road; though despite the recent snow there was virtually no snow to speak of. We glimpsed a view of the Schloss Weissenstein castle just outside of the village of Matrei in Osttirol. Here the valley widened a little and what had been a small creek had grown into a proper river. Not long after we pulled into the bus/train station in Lienz (Lee inz).

We had a choice here to take a bus or a train. The bus was leaving NOW and the train in a few minutes time. I tried to ask the driver about the destination to confirm it, but we had a language barrier and he was ready to back out. Quickly checking the train schedule, I confirmed which platform for the train. We scampered down to the tunnel and panting arrived at the train still waiting to depart. With maybe a minute to spare, we boarding a nearly empty train. Skis had been a problem on an earlier train. Someone had finally placed them in the overhead luggage rack to get them out of the way. So my impulse was to do the same on this train. However, the skis are long and extended over an arched divider to segment the luggage rack along it's length. As I put them there I thought there was a chance they could fall out of the rack. Next I was feeling frantic to get the ticket up in the Eurail app as the train pulled away from the station. Whoa, that was a fast transfer! Switching transport so fast in a strange place can easily lead to going to the wrong destination. I checked, all was good. We were on the right train and would beat the bus to San Candido. About this time the train rounded a corner and the skis came flying off the luggage rack - striking Ron's head on the way down! Needless to say, he's suffered some from it but appears that he'll be ok. We past Versciaco which is a small place that includes some of the ski area of the 3 Zinnen where will be the next couple of days. We exited the train at San Candido; no had checked our tickets - again the honor system.

At the street in front of the train station sat a bus. Oh my! That's the bus we want! The next one isn't for an hour. I waved as it started to pull away and nicely the driver stopped and pointed us to the back door. This bus was much like the first one of the day packed with locals and skiers. I pondered as it pulled away as to whether we had jumped on the bus going our desired direction? I uttered 'Sexten' to the gentleman near me. He recognised by accent and immediately responded affirmatively saying we would arrive in 5-6 minutes.

The last two transfers had the tightest timing I can remember since maybe Japan. I'm delighted it worked out, but hope I don't experience this again for a long time.

The recent snowfall had the skiers out in force. The Dolomites in the area with the recent snowfall backdropped by blue skies are stunningly spectacular. I'm looking forward to views from higher up on the mountains.

We met a very friendly receptionist at Caravan Park Sexten. I listened to her first speaking Italian then German to customers in front of us. Then she switched to English for us. Incredible. I'm envious. Asked if she spoke French she understood my question, but said 'pico'.

Ron loves a hut tub and this place helps that itch. It has a very creative spa area. A pool is designed to mimic a natural environment with rock motifs and a gravel bottom. There are several hot tubs that randomly burst forworth with bubbles. The water could be a tad warmer in the hot tubs. From almost any place in the spa, one can see the jagged peaks. Since the place is a mile or two out of town, it's convenient that there is a small grocery store and a ski rental. We visited both. And so brings to a close our travel day to the 3 Zinnen area and more skiing to come.

20260127

Today we got to head up on the ski mountain in the 3 Zinnen area. After a leisurely breakfast we walked 100 meters to the bus stop and rode it one stop down valley. We caught the gondola on the side facing the 3 Zinnen Dolomites first. Wow! We found fresh champagne powder off piste! It wasn't much and the slope was low angle, but for two Colorado powder hounds we enjoyed it. With the sun out, the skies blue, and the snow in good shape, we set out exploring the skiing opportunities. We met a nice Italian gentleman on a gondola ride who gave us pointers about where to ski. We skied down to the villages of Sexten and the Versciaco by days end.

We lunched at the ski base in Versciaco. There we noticed untracked powder - unheard of in the Rockies after a couple of days post the snowfall. So we rode an old two seater chair (that felt more suitable for 6 year olds) and cut some tracks in that powder.

That brings to mind a couple of comments. My skis are too wide for the slots provided with the gondolas so most of the time I'm taking my skis into the gondola with me. Seems most people are skiing on narrower skis than myself both at 3 Zinnen and at Kitzbuhl back in Austria. Because of the amount of untracked snow off piste that was deep enough to ski and looking at the nature of the tracks, I'd venture a guess that folks here don't have much experience with powder. However, on the pistes, they can carve the hardpack snow with style and aggressiveness.

We found the best snow at the set of lifts and runs at the base of the 3 Zinnen mountains - the mountains we looked at in awe during the mornng from the other side of the valley.

Another visit to the spa at our accomodations after a full day of skiing was very pleasant. Later Ron treated me to a nice Italian meal as thanks for my planning the trip - not necessary but much enjoyed.

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Ron elected to cross-country ski today. Being the resource guy he is, he found a series of trails right where we're staying at the Caravan Park Sexten. He skied down to Signaue where we'd caught our first gondola yesterday. Later in the afternoon he skied up to Kreuzbergpass.

I elected to make a couple of runs at Rotwand Croda Rossa again. I skied down to a place called Moos/Moso (Austrian/Italian). It was a black run which means steep. Most folks here downhill or giant salom the groomed portion of the run. Me I found fresh powder on a side of the run and sliced that up. I've not seen a single mogul since leaving Colorado.

Next I took a 2-3 mile route through the woods from Rotwand Croda Rossa to Kreuzbergpass. I passed a 'root cage' and a little sign talking about the spirits of the woods and the rock spirits. The very last segment of the trail incorporated a moving sidewalk for skiers going uphill to the ski area.

The Kreuzberg ski area is a single poma style lift. There were about 6 of us skiing the two runs that came down either side of the lift to a hotel at the base and summit of the pass. Next to the hotel is an ancient granite marker place there to settle disputes about who could use what lands and marking a boundary between Tyrol and Italy. The current Austria - Italy border is a few miles to the east now.

I enjoyed several short runs with untracked powder of 4-10 inches in depth.

It was snowing lightly to heavily the entire day.

Jumping on a bus I arrived back at our lodge to enjoy lunch. Afterward I took a bus into Sexten to enjoy an afternoon coffee and strudel. I wandered through the tiny village and eventually walked to the adjacent village of Moos where I caught a bus back to the Caravan Park.

We headed over to the spa where I perspired in a dry sauna outfitted with hay providing a rich aroma. I found it very pleasing.

Ron prepared a nice meal at our lodge to close out our final day at the 3 Zinnen region of the Italian Dolomites.