Annecy

Annecy, Lac d'Annecy, and the surrounding mountains with spring well along offer the beauty of the Alps.

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20230529 - Travel from Nice to Annecy, France

Another early day to catch a train from Nice to Marsaille. It took two more trains and a bus to finally arrive at Camp L'Horizon in Talloires, France. Today is a holiday in France so the buses ran at a reduced schedule. I caught the last one from Annecy to Talloires. The driver was all smiles and with limited English helped me select the correct stop and other details. The sun had not completely set fortunately. A lady at the campsite had closed up simply inviting me to select a site and let them know the next day. I'd grabbed some more food in Annecy before boarding the busk and that became dinner.

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What a day!

The previous night had been only mildly chilly in the tent. I put my hat only sometime early in the morning before first light. I didn't want to miss what the rising sun might bring on the surrounding peaks so emerged at 6AM. The light scattered by the moisture haze didn't offer inspiring photo opportunities. Some cold cereal and I decided to wander down the steep hill into town toward a patisserie I noted opens at 7AM. The father-daughter shop served up fresh baked goods and coffee with a smile.

Talloires sits on Lac d'Annecy gouged out during the last glacial period. I wandered down for a better look. Boats slept silently at their moorings on the glass smooth calm water. An area on the lakeshore resembles a swimming pool with ladders and slides, but also floating docks. The beautifully clear water provides drinking water for the surrounding towns up to a height of 37 meters above the lake. (One of the owners of the campground shared that little fact with me.)

A tree covered preserve located just south on a high point that drops precipitously into the lake beaconed. I ended up wandering and walking the trails through the preserve to the town of Menthon-Saint-Bernard. The trail initially skirts the lake on a narrow boardwalk used by monks to collect wood. The trail then climbs steeply affording serene views of the lake and mountains. Flattening out in an old growth deciduous forest the becomes an easy peaceful meander through the forest. Many birds sang while remaining high and out of site. Once I did here rack like sounds in some grass eventually determining they were made by medium sized black birds with orange beaks looking for grub. Two black squirrels with big furry chased each other up and around trees. There were several people out running, but no one just walking as I think it was too early in the day.

Upon reaching Menthon-Saint-Bernard I found a grocery store and supplied myself with items for lunch. Then I took another trail back into the preserve to a high point overlooking the lake and enjoyed some food.

This area turns our to be a very popular destination for paragliders. They filled the sky like flies on the rotting flesh of the high mountain cliffs in the area. They kept flying and flying. Returning to the campsite the landing site came into view. Paragliders hitched rides back up the road. Others practiced sail work in the lading others. The wind felt gusty at times and the paragliders appeared to wrestle with it at times as then worked to land. The thermals in the area must be good because some paragliders rose to amazing heights circling. Some of the campers are paragliders.

One of the campground owners pulled out maps to show me hikes in the region. The lake is at 550 meters and the surrounding peaks are at 2400 meters. He rattled off 300 meters per hour for hiking speed. I'd enjoy exploring up high, but I'd have to catch a ride with someone as from here the distance are impractical.

This stop was intended as a layover on the way to the UK. And the UK is to stop the clock running my Schengen Area days. I didn't put much thought into selecting this destination, but I am enthralled with the beauty and the diverse activities available. It might be a nice place to visit during the winter though the ski areas are about an hour away.

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What a great day! - Again!

I climbed (and came down) 3700ft over 9 miles today. The hike today from camp at Talloires took me to Col de Frete (5360ft) - a mountain saddle high above the town. The saddle lies between two prominent rocky peaks: Pointe Sud (5876ft) and Lonfonnet (5889ft). These aren't high by Colorado standards, but they rise up sharply from Lac d'Annecy at ~1480ft in about 2 miles or about 0.4 ft rise for every 1 ft horizontally on average!

There were some stops along the trek. There is a grotto with 12 stations connected with the hermitage and Germain Englise (church). Access is by a narrow ledge in the limestone cliff. Perhaps monks found spiritual inspiration in nature at dramatic places because my travels have come across several. The trek took me past the cemetery next to the church then past several small fields growing wheat. One could hear cows with bells nearby. Quite by accident I decided to detour slightly to the collection of homes called Ponnay. One sign pointed 200m down a small road. At the end of the road another sign pointing back in the direction I'd come also reported 200m! I guess the 200m meant that's how much town there is! But this slight detour caused me to take a different route up which in retrospect I'm most glad for because that route was arduous. Either way one ends up at a place called Planfait; a launch site for paragliders and a zip-line adventure. The weather was stellar so I watched some people progressing in their skills with an instructor and takeoff.

If the trek to Planfait seemed steep, the next segments on increased in steepness until cresting at the saddle. Most of the trail passed through a moist forest with trees that include massive pine trees some being logged. I wish we had cool moist forests like this in Colorado as it helped cool one down from the ever present climb. I passed three women probably 40'ish with hiking sticks chatting up a storm coming down. Shortly after than a younger woman came running down - I wondered what her run up speed was as I was near crawling.

The views from the saddle are as you're anticipating - breathtaking. Snow covered peaks had come into view to the south. A valley leading back to the north was on the immediate east side of the saddle. And everywhere jagged peaks rose toward scattered cumulus clouds. Spring was still on the way at this elevation as some of the bushes were just budding out. Wildflowers were abundant as where the butterflies.

Three paragliders were preparing to launch. I asked one of them how they'd gotten up and the answer was the same way I had! He said they consider it a success when they don't have to walk back down.

I guess the mountains are ingrained in me. Standing in a place like that saddle brings peace and joy.

On the trek back down, I returned to Planfait. The weather was turning so no one was flying. I took the route down I hadn't taken on the way up. Yikes! Very very steep and if muddy would have posed a serious challenge. Parts involved down climbing rock intervals. The trail finally turned south and followed along a ridge with a cliff face on my left and trees on my right running down a very very steep slope to what I knew was another cliff face.The sun shone most of the time, but a few rain drops fell and I head distant thunder a couple of times. My knees were so happy to make it back to camp!

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This day focused on taking in the beauty, being introspective, and enjoying the diversity of people. The only travel involved jumping on the bus from Talloires and arriving in Annecy about 30 minutes later; the ride turned out to be free so I gave my bus ticket to the receptionist at the hotel in Annecy.

At Camp l'Horizon seemed to live a young man with an office in one of the sink basin cubicles. Twice opening the door thinking the cubicle empty and instead finding him, cables, phones, and computers. Then the couple that stayed only one night. They arrived on two electric bikes with one towing a trailer. The had a tent with blow up tubes instead of poles. Their daughter probably between 1-2 years in age proceeding to charge up toward me as if I was a member of their family. The really amazing part being that in addition to the daughter they had two smallish dogs! And they had all this on two bikes and a trailer. The swimming area on the Talloires lake front teemed with families, woman sunbathing, scuba divers (plongee), a surveyor, and cyclists. The families came from France, Germany, and England judging from the languages. Adults were following kids down the slide. Parents helped their children over the fear of the water. People snapped photos of the lake. The swim area with its mature shade trees, grassy area, benches to sit on, and well designed docks and ladders made for a delightful place to hang for a couple of hours.

Starting up the hill for the campground scattered raindrops started to fall. Not desirable as the tent needed to be packed. Fortunately the rain never started in earnest while packing. The bus stop a short distance from the campground was in full view of the landing paragliders. During one particularly busy landing sequence an air traffic controller looked needed. Somehow the flyers in the air and those on the ground managed to it all smoothly.

The need for the night in the city of Annecy arose due to an early train departure for the UK tomorrow. The hotel lies only a couple blocks from the train station.

An evening walk about Annecy revealed a delightful town! There are two large parks separated by a small river and connected by the Pont D'amore (Bridge of love). The diversity of people relaxing, eating dinners, rock hopping, playing games, and just chatting invited one to join in. The male and female rock hopping on specialized bikes almost defies description. Three boulders ranging in height from 3 to 6 feet were the object of their attention. They managed to hop their bikes onto the top of all but the 6 foot one never coming off their bikes!

Walking onward from the parks are the many streets and water courses. The water comes from Lac d'Annecy. This once medieval city still retains some of the characteristic from those times making a charming place in this age. Many tourists enjoyed dinners holding hands, clinking wine glasses, and chatting merrily.

Annecy looks to me to be one of the most livable places I've seen in my travels thus far. The charm of the city, the diversity of its people, the community atmosphere, and the wealth of activities offers much.

20230602 - travel from Annecy, France to London, England

When you travel many days are travel days. Today takes me from Annecy to the London St Pancras International train station. It requires four trains with the third an INOui high speed (170mph) and the fourth on Eurostar through the Chunnel. The countryside for most of the journey is rolling or flat agricultural land if not under water. The four hour layover in Lille, France, started out just sitting outside in the coolish windy conditions. Not keen on carrying my luggage, I still decided to venture away from the Lille Europe train station. A short walk through a park with narrow winding paths and three blocks of road construction deposited me in Centre Ville. From just a few people to streets full of shoppers, tourists, and students! Each building had some unique facade to examine. There were cafes and shops galore. I poked my head in the Saint-Maurice de Lille church taking in the lofted ceilings and stained glass windows scattering color on the floor. Passing by the Lille Flanders train station on my return, I felt grateful to have ventured forth to take in the people and buildings so nearby.

Going through passport control at the Lille Europe train station, the Schengen clock stopped and about four weeks in the UK began.