Munich 2026

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Munich 2026

20260117

I arrived at DIA on the RTD bus feeling a little fatigued. Lingering effects from my two week old cold I suppose. My boarding pass instructed me to check-in at counter 2. If you've visited the airport recently you'll know the place likens an ongoing heart bypass surgery with the small intestine attached to the left atrium - it's a mess. After reading signage and asking two people, I finally found the Lufthansa check-in tucked in a corner on the baggage claim level with the number 20.

I approached the counter on the words 'next in line'. The clerk scanned my passport and announced, "I see you are on standby." Say what(!?!) I think. He quickly added as I stared at him in disbelief, "For $489 I can upgrade you to business class."

How often does one buy an airline ticket, arrive at check-in, only to be told you're on standby? For an international flight? I would enjoy the enlightenment to retrace my actions that resulted in this occurring. Ok, so maybe it's because I purchased a Lufthansa ticket through the United Airlines website.

Then the clerk starts to backtrack, "Oh, I don't know if I can upgrade you since you're standby. Let me ask someone else." Turns out yes he can and asks me if I want to spend the extra money. Hmmmmmmmm, I'm standby on an overbooked flight and he's offering me business class for about 50% more from what I paid for economy. No brainer for me! What's that cold lonesome under-used international credit card for anyway! And I get access to the United business lounge too. So instead of having fallen into a medieval dungeon by being standby, I found myself with a business class seat that was priced well below the those prices quoted when I originally booked the ticket. I watched the clerk attach 'priority' tags on my luggage and couldn't help but smile. Happy me!

I chilled in the United lounge before my flight basking in my good fortune. Lufthansa has good business class service and seats. They lie flat. Yes, they lie flat in their own little cubby. No trying to sleep sitting up with your neighbor threatening to drool on your shoulder in economy for 10 hours. I enjoyed bottomless drinks on command, a nice meal, and flat restful sleep. With an 8 hour time change I arrived into Munich feeling shockingly good. Money well spent in my view.

20260118

The S train into Munich went smoothly. A 40ish Airbus aeronatical engineer, Paulo, now working in Germany, born and raised in Brazil with relatives in Portgual, an ex-wife in Germany with two step-daughters, another ex-wife in Sao Paulo (Brazil) with his daughter, and a Brazilian lawyer girlfriend working to move to Germany to be with him struck up a conversation with me on the 1 hour train ride into the city. (I thought my life had been complicated - ha!) Folks from Brazil are very friendly! I walked the few blocks to the Wombat's Hostel near the Ost Bahnhof station where I'll be staying the next week.

After settling in and wishing to adjust to the time change, I went out in the late afternoon to wander the city. I made it to the Isar river that flows through the city. The walk took me by several sights: Maximilianeum building that houses a school for gifted students (nobody with less than an A- is admitted) and the Bavarian Parliament, the Alpine Museum, Müller'sches Volksbad (swimming pool), the Gastieg (cultural center), and the Müchen Ost (one of two major train stations). Despite the chill many people were out walking - couples, people with dogs, adults with strollers, joggers, and cyclists. It felt very safe. There were a number of small parks and a big one that ran alongside the river. The buildings often looked over 75 years old at least. They were almost all about 5 stories high.

On the theme of 'safe', I noted on the train ride in from the aiport that I didn't see anyone with a ticket or getting their ticket stamped. So either folks from Munich are extremely honest or they pay in ways I didn't detect.

20260119

The low clouds of yesterday evaporated sometime during the night leaving clear skies with crisp cool air. I walked to a local Lidl store to acquire some breakfast and snacking food after which I returned to the Wombat's Hostel to have some food.

The next mission I headed to the Ostbahnof station to secure some Euro's and a city public transportation ticket. No electronic ticket dispensers for bus tickets were to be found. However, in the DB train office a kind lady easily speaking English sold me a €23 weekly pass. Turns out that the public transportation system is all based on the honor system. She told me to show the ticket "if asked" otherwise one boards trains, buses, and trams freely.

An odd thing I may not get used to is that doors don't always open outward to exit. Seems like a safety issue, but hey, standards vary. I did think one establishment was closed because pulling on the door didn't open it.

I took a train to Isartor. This Medieval structure was one of the original city gates. It now houses a museum but was under refurbishment and closed. I walked back south crossing the Isar river to the Deutsches Museum. This science and technology museum is a must see if you're into that sort of thing. The place is filled with genuine examples of aircraft, V2 rockets, radiation physics experimental equipment, and satellites. Then there is an entire room focuses on bridges with models of historical and current ones. There is a life size section of an Airbus 350 aircraft so you can see the interworkings of the construction. There are cutaways of several jet engines. An entire section focused on aircraft models and airflow devices to test them with hands-on experiments to explore airfoil designs. I enjoyed seeing several ancient bassoons in the music section. Free audio guides were scattered around the museum. I ended up spending about 4-1/2 hours there. In hindsight stopping a couple of times to get a drink or food in the museum and extending my time would have left me the energy to delve into many of the exhibits in more detail. Most things were in English as well as German.

Wearing out, I left the museum and headed toward the older section of town. I went to the Hofbräuhaus brewery. It's definitely a touristy destination, but one of the hostel hosts recommended it. Built in 1589 by Bavarian Duke Maximilian it opened to the public in 1828. All the brewing is done elsewhere not. There are several large rooms with high painted ceilings, large chandaliers, and oversized picnic style tables. When I arrived a three piece Bavarian group was playing traditional tunes on a slightly raised stage. I stopped an Asian looking waiter to ask about how the place worked. I read something about beer tokens. He didn't speak English - he must be there for the Asian tourists - but showed me an English line on his phone, "Take a seat anywhere". So I did and someone came to take my order. I selected 0.5l Hofbräu Original amber beer and the pork sausage with sauerkraut. Neither rocked my world, but it satiated my thirst and appetite.

It was nearby, so I walked the length of Maximilianstraße with it's very upscale shops. Sales people stood finely dressed ready to pounce if you stepped into the shops with brands that included Rolex and Hermes. I think the cheapest watch I say in a display window was about $12,000.

Keeping my wallet tightly closed, I took a tram back to the hostel. Despite being early, I crashed into bed for the day.

20260120

This morning was a direct beeline to the Munich Residenz Museum on Munich's subway, the U-bahn or 'U' for short. Upon emerging onto the street uncertain as to my exact location I started a wonder. Adjacent to the Residenz is the Hofgarten, a large area with manicured gardens and walkways surrounded by a two story wall and buildings. The day was again clear and the temperature in the low 30's.

My wandering turned out to take me left when right would have brought me to the Residenz museum entrance. Walking along the Residenzstrabe, I found myself at the Lowenstatue vor der Residenz (entrance to the Residenz). Just in front of me a walking woman had casually reached up and touched a portion of the two metal lion statues on either side of the entrance. The spot she touched was brass shiny from the touch of many people. I turned in here to enter a building courtyard. Continuing I passed through a couple more large courtyards before existing and founding myself adjacent to the Bavarian State Chancellery, state government offices, building and the tomb of the unknown soldier. I circled the very large state building and found the entrance with a row of exotic looking BMW cars, police cars, and what looked to be security staff chatting. I went in the small door, looked at the security officer and doors and walked out.

Still looking for the Residenze Museum I took a circular route paste the Max Planck Institute (For you scientists there's that name again!), the Theatre in Marstall, and to the Max Joseph Platz and finally the entrance to the museum.

The entrance fee to the Residenz Museum was €8. Remember I mentioned passing through courtyards? Well the museum is maze of corridors in the buildings that formed those courtyards. Corridors made up of rooms starting with outer waiting chambers, next in line chambers, general meeting chambers, special guest chambers, sitting room chambers, bedroom chambers, and then the entire sequence of rooms in reverse for either the king or elector. Some rooms displayed China porcelan. Some Japanese porcelan. Some were filled with mirrors. Others adorned with spectacular gold leaf. There was the Antiquarium or banquet hall with statues in the Greek and Roman style along the walls. There were a couple of rooms at the top of a dramatic staircase that were the private rooms of one of the last Bavarian leaders where he contemplated morality and how to serve his constitutes well. I came to a split for the short or long tour. My first thought was, "There's a long tour!?" I took the 'short' tour and still wandered through room after room so glad I hadn't taken the 'long' tour! The Music Residenz was built up over about 500 years as new rulers felt compelled to build their own buildings onto the existing ones.

Having escaped the maze of royal rooms, I went looking for a drink and snack. Across the street is the Fünf Höfe Muchen or an upscale shopping mall. I dined at the H Fünf essbar enjoying a delicious salad and tea. I explored this section of the old city passing through the Odeonspatz and tried to enter the Theatin Church but the doors were locked - unusual in Europe. I found myself in front of the Frauenkirche. It's one of the more spectacular buildings in this section because of it's two tall bell towers. I sat inside this church enjoying the dramatically high ceiling and arches. It clearly has been landmark for the city of Munich for centuries.

Just around the corner is another stunning building on the Marienplatz - the New Town Hall. There is a Glockenspiel in this building and the interior courtyard has a medieval flavor spiral staircase structure. I headed back to the hostel after this with plans to return to this area tomorrow.

20260121

And here I am back on the Marienplatz to enjoy the musical and visual striking of the Glockenspiel on the New Town Hall building (old by new world standards). The building was first constructed in 1874 and expanded through to 1906. It replaced the townhall that now houses a toy museum, Spielzeugmuseum im Alten Rathausturm; sadly the museum was closed for renovations. The Glockenspiel chimes at the hours of 11 and 12 with a sequence that lasts 10 minutes. A visual display of life-size jesters, jousting knights, and twirling dancers accompanies the bells; no video was collected, you'll just have to experience it someday yourselves.

On the north side of Marienplatz is the three story bookstore Hugendubel. I enjoyed a cup of coffee and crescent at their coffee shop on the third floor. I didn't browse the books too much as most are in German - surprise!

By the time I left the bookstore the Glockenspiel was chiming the noon hour. An even larger group stood enjoy the simple but unique and charming display.

Forty meters away is the entrance to the St Peters Catholic church. As you know, it's Europe, you gotta check out the churches. They are a marvel of architecture and how high one can stack stone blocks before they fall over. This one does not disappoint. The interior decorations boarder on glitzy.

Just down the block is the open air market place, Viktualienmarkt. Being winter most of the booths were closed. A few were open. A couple of popular ones were selling some form of pastry. Next door is a store called the Eataly. I believe the name is a play on 'Eat Italy'. Wow! I'd be in there every other day if we had a store like that back home. The cheese, meat, pasta, and bread selections had me salivating.

Around the next corner I came across the Jewish Temple and museum. Although the Jews were removed from Munich during WWII, I understand there are several thousand that have returned to the city.

I beginning to wonder where the middle and lower income folks shop. In this section of Munich I continue to find myself outside upscale stores. Not quite the oppulence of those along Maximilianstroße, but far from the Dollar Store.

I walked underneath the Sendling Tor or west gate of the ancient city to enter the U-bahn. I'd intended on taking publich tansportation another section of town and some museums, but found myself exiting near the Odeonsplatz. I discovered that this open area and the long street broad street facing it were the centers for many protests in the 1913-22 period. I decided to walk north along Brienner Str. to my next destination.

I feel after the Deutsches Museum a very important place to visit is the NS-Dokumentationszentrum München. This four story museum houses documentation regarding the events in the city from 1913-1946; the war years of WWI and WWII. It details mostly in written displays the ebb and flow of political parties, protests, and the key people of the time. There are written artifacts, pictures, and film clips also presented. I was enthralled and eventually slightly overwhelmed by the amount of information and weight of the events. The parallels between the rise of the Nazi regime and the events in the USA currently are sobbering.

I wandered past the Glyptothek, a museum of Greek and Roman statues, the Propyläen monument to the Lenbachhaus. The Lenbachhas is a museum of eclectic art works. There was a focus on artists that had some connection with the city of Munich.

By the time I left the skies were turning dark. I took a city bus back to Ostbahnhof, grabbed a Bavarian Sandwich from a sandwish and pastry chain before calling it a day.

20260122

The women seen walking the streets of Munich often wear those 'Chicago' style coats with big hoods and lengths below their knees. They also sport bulky knitted hats and scarves they can pull up over their faces. Today I appreciated why - it was cold!! Still dry, but biting cold.

So as I walked through the western end of the English Garden with frost on the ground and trees stripped to their skeletons the though emerged as to why this activity today. Seeing the English Garden would be better suited to the summer on a bicycle. It's huge as it follows the Isar river. There were two surfing waves I came across, but they both had signs posted 'no boating' and 'skulls'. I understand one of the waves was re-engineered by the local university to try and make it safer and instead destroyed the 'standing' part.

Sufficiently chilled, I took in the Bavarian Museum. I wasn't expecting much, but was shocked at the collection of draw dropping craftsmanship from the 15th to 19th centuries. There were ivory carvings the likes I'd never seen before. The exihibit includes 19th century porcelain, armor, Christian religious gold, silver, and jewel artifacts, wood inlaid furniture, and more. I left with an appreciation for the artisanship of humans and the pondering of how many poor people slaved to generate the revenue for the wealthy and the church to acquire such marvels.

I took lunch nearby at a Vietnamese run cafe. They served me a genuine English breakfast.

Some observations standout in my wanderings of Munich. I've seen many young mothers with infants walking for in strollers. Most of the areas I've visited ooze wealthy giving me a bias view that Germans are financially well off. Overall it's been clean with the exception of the area around the main train station. The city is comprised of 4-5 story flats. Only the few church steeples are taller. Older men often dress crisply in blacks and grays, cleanly shaven, with distinguishing looks. Many roads have bike paths between the sidewalks and the road. The people use them! Bikes with buckets for kids or groceries are abundant. The cars give pedestrians and cyclists the right-of-way and plenty of space. The public transportation system feels like the best I've experienced with trains, trams, subways, and buses well interlinked to overlapping. There is not system of payment on any of them. Again, it's the honor system. I've never felt crowded or threatened. People are courteous while eye contact never happens. Walking surfaces get graveled to prevent slipping on the snow or ice - if there is any! Everyone I've encountered speaks some level of English.

For grins and to explore further afield, I jumped on the U-bahn heading out to the Olympia grounds to visit the BMW Welt. The place is the most extravagant car and motorcycle sales and delivery place you're ever likely to encounter. It's where I'm typing this up.

One of the clerks at Wombat's Hostel who was a child in Bosnia suggested I go to Restaurant UNA, a restaurant with a Bosnian menu. So for my last night in Munich I traveled 40 minutes by U-bahn to check it out. The waiter became extremely friendly after I mentioned the referal by a Bosnian woman. He loved that! There was much to much food, but I managed to eat it all. He then brought me a shot of some type of liquor on the house; must say it was mighty delicious! I left more than a generous tip.

I made my way back to the hostel for the last time on a U-bahn connecting to an S-bahn. Yeah, I'm starting to know my way about the city.