StMoritz 2026

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St. Moritz, Switzerland 2026

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Travel plans are a good idea, but often get altered upon implementation. I checked out the hotel in Bolzano early making my way to the trains station. Internally I was still debating whether to take only trains to St. Mortiz on an 8 hour adventure through Innsbruck, Austria or take the Google maps suggestion of traveling through Mals, Italy for 6 hours that involved both trains and buses. I stood on the 3-4 platforms at the Bolzano bahnhof. One train headed north and the other south with both leaving within a minute of each other.

A slight detour before telling which train I boarded. The big board displaying the trains times and numbers didn't match my Eurail app or Google maps. I could see trains leaving in the next 10 minutes so I just headed to platform 3. Oddly, the electronic signs on tracks 3 and 4 matched the information I had. I was glad I decided to just 'wing' it.

Standing on the platform I opted for the shorter time Google maps choice. Both routes had backup options, but the train/bus option looked more flexible. The train arrived, people emptied the train and I boarded it with plenty of space. It's route traveled through a more industrial section of town before turning west and heading up the river valley. This train ride from Bolzano to Merano was up a broad valley with very steep and high mountainsides. It was mostly filled with --- vineyards!?! This continued all the way to Mals, Italy. I was struck by houses and vineyards several hundred meters up the steep mountainsides and wondered how people got up there. No roads where evident. However, there were several trams along the route much like the one in Bolzano which offers a clue.

All along the trip have been views of snow covered peaks. There have been castles perched on rocky outcrops. There have been many churches some with the onion steeples and others with very tall conical steeples. The roads often disappear into tunnels cutting through the mountainsides to skirt the small villages. There is evidence of heavy industries. One was a marble cutting facility with huge blocks of raw white marble.

My first train ride terminated in Merano. It turns out the train from here to Mals, Italy, is being upgraded from diesel to electric so that is why it was a bus service. I was able to purchase a ticket from a kiosk. An english speaking hydroelectical engineer took my under his wing helping me navigate the system and then chatted with me for the last leg of the journey. Only two stops from Mals, the bus driver said, 'fini'. Even the engineer was confused, but we just walked over to another waiting bus, confirmed it's destination and rode it for the remaining short distance to the Mals Bahnhof.

A small cafe in this small train station was hosted by a young blonde woman with a nose piercing who spoke English. She's probably been asked the question so many times as to where to catch the Swiss bus 811 to Zernez that she'd be happy to decapitate the next person who did. Fortunately that wasn't me as she pointed through the window to the yellow sign down the platform. I quickly ordered a coffee and one of the cheese sandwiches on display just in case she was thinking of reaching for a sword. I worked on the blog while sitting waiting the 40 minutes for the bus.

There were three of us who boarded the bus. One gentleman appears to have done this ride many times based on him opening the luggage compartment and tossing in his small suitcase. I slid my skis into the same area then asked the driver about purchasing a ticket. He did not speak English. A credit card didn't work. I asked about Euros and he displayed the price in Swiss Francs, 9.50CHF. Now, I discovered before I left Colorado that I had 30 Swiss Francs in a stash of different unspent currencies from my many travels over the years. I had that cash with me. I would venture to guess the last time I obtained Swiss Francs was back circa 2011. (Yes, I'm getting old.) How it could be that long since I was in Switzerland I have no idea as I love the Alps. I whipped out the ancient 10CHF note. He glanced at it and handed it back. The he said 'Euros'. I put down a €10 and he said something my uncouncious brain interpreted as €1. He accepted €11 for the fare. It would seem my Swiss Francs are no longer legal tender.

Barely had the bus traveled a mile when it approached a small medieval walled city with an opening in the wall the designers of which were clearly lacking forsight to make it wide enough for a 21st century bus. The driver slowly and cautiously lined the bus up and by the hair on pig's face we squeezed into the city. There the bus picked up about 8 grade schoolers chatting away furiously in German. So this bus serves as a school bus also?! Just before the Italian and Swiss border the kids all bailed. But shortly afterward arriving into the first town in Switzerland and gaggle of grade school kids got on. We didn't go far and they all poured out of the back door and down a short steep hill to a building labled, 'scuola'. (Curious, this is school in Italian, but folks were speaking German.) We passed through a number of tiny villages their homes often adorned with painted stencil like patterns on the exterior corners - very charming. The bus had acquired other patrons as well. One lady got on and later, far up on the Ofenpass, got off with her snowshoes.

The road was approaching treeline and snow blanketed the ground though the trees were bare. The pine trees became stunted looking not unlike those in Colorado at elevation. The switchbacks became sharp and often. Then we reached the top of the pass where there was a bus stop. I can easily assess that on a bad weather day, this pass could be closed and I thanked that the sun shone today. The way down toward the town of Zernez left the road barely cut out of a steep mountainside that plunged much further down to a very narrow valley floor. I kept wondering how the road was going to lose all its elevation since Zernez is down down there somewhere. It managed to and very shortly the bus stopped at the bahnhof.

I was a little anxious. Since crossing into Switzerland my phone would not connect. I likely would need to present a Eurail generated train ticket. Fortunately, I discovered that because I'd already saved the train and time, the app had stored the QR code for the ticket. And double fortunately, once arriving into Zernez the phone suddenly decided to connect. The train for St Moritz arrived about 20 minutes after the bus and it even had a 1st class section!

I'm bowled over how the transportation has run so smoothly on this trip. There were moments things looked grim - like finding myself standby for the international flight - but it's all ticked off with clockwork today included.

I had an uphill walk to the hotel in St Moritz from the train station which left me a little winded. The room is tiny, but the shower water is hot and the room has a nice view of St Moritz.

I'm finding the prices feel expensive in Swiss Francs and then with the exchange rate definitely are expensive. Italy was good, Switzerland is a different story. I was able to exchange the old Swiss Francs for new ones at the UBS bank branch in the town center; the lady seem to scowl a bit as she swapped out the bills. (The scowling my just be the local way.)

I had dinner in the hotel restaurant because it was a long day and it's about a 10 minute walk to town.

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Getting an early start, I took the hotel breakfast shortly after 7AM. Then geared up and got the first hotel van at 9AM to the Corviglia funicular. The clouds hung low in the valley just below treeline. That observation didn't give me warm fuzzies. I dreaded skiing above the trees in thick clouds.

The first funicular was short and full. It stopped at a transfer point. I could see a small parking lot outside the building. All of us in the first funicular trundled up the stairs and boarded the second funicular. This was a much longer ride passing through a tunnel, then by condos, then through a forest with old spring aged looking snow and patches of ground. It made a turn and continued to higher into - the "FOG"! Well technically just clouds. There was a ski rental shop at the top of this funicular. I lingered not eager to step into the whiteout outside. I consulted my paper map as St Moritz doesn't have many big run-side maps like Cortina. I decided to gamble on getting above these clouds by going to the highest point at St Mortiz, Piz Nair. I could just vaguely make out the entrance to this tram about 10 meters from the exist of the funicular. Only a dozen of us actually boarded the tram. I thought "I'll manage the clouds." There were two small separate groups of French; that was interesting as I haven't come across any French folks on this trip to mention. The tram operator boarded and an older French man struck up a conversation in German with the operator. I could tell they were discussing the clouds and where it's best to go. The tram operator laughed at one point and indicated 'who knows!' The tram lifted into the white-on-white world. As we traveled higher, my hunch was good. The clouds started to break and I could see distant rock outcrops and snow below.

It wasn't windy or particularly cold at the top though there were still mostly clouds. The Piz Nair structure or top of the tram was built with a heat transfer system to protect the 'permafrost' at the top of this 3057m mountain. When I started down, everyone else had departed; it was me, the mountain, the clouds, and the run. The second corner of the run almost looked to be built on a bridge with netting on one side. It wasn't as bad as it first looked. The clouds were not present as I rounded the next corner offering views of a jagged mountain range and below it a chair lift. Good news! Poor visibility didn't look to be an issue today.

I made several runs on a couple different chair lifts. The pistes were marked with blue poles on the edges periodically. The snow on the pistes was ok; the typical hardpack with some light scrapped fluff. Several day old powder looked inviting beyond the blue poles. I tested it and decided to avoid it. There was a weak baked layer about 6 inches down just ripe for twisting a knee and the 'powder' on top was sunbaked and then frozen with random ski tracks cut into it - kinda like plastified food that looks good, but completely inedible.

I skied, but had no clue where I was on the mountain - I didn't really care, but maybe also that male problem of not asking direction. I eventually found myself around the Glüna lift - along with everyone else! I surmise because this area was above the cloud bank and nice broad open runs. I didn't mind, because the chairs have single lines and there is nobody in them except me so I skied right on to the chairlifts.

I eventually skied down into the top of the clouds to the Marguns chairlift. This chair remained the clouds probably because of the ridge it went up. I could hear skis scrapping on snow and people talking, but only saw people a couple of time. Fortunately at the top looking southwest the skies were partly clear. I could see across the valley with St Moritz at the bottom to the spectacular mountains beyond to the south. To make my way back to where the hotel van would pick me up, I needed to catch a chair to a point called Plateau Nair. And so begins the nightmare.

Yes, there are poles occassionally marking the edges of runs. And, yes, once in a while there'll be a sign posting the number of the run. But honestly! For someone new to the ski area in a cloud bank, such markings are totally inadequate! The clouds were so thick I couldn't tell if I was moving or still. I'd cozy up to a blue pole and stand there searching in vain for another blue pole. Then I'd side slip staring at the snow I was pushing down the hill because that's all I could distinguish. I'm surprise I didn't fall over because up down left right all looked the same. What blew my mind is that people would ski past me making turns as if the sun were out on a spring day! Was it old eyes? Poor goggles? How were they doing that?? I'd watch which direction they went before they vanished in the fog 30 meters away. I kept seeing ghosts of poles, people, and rocks that weren't there.

I was trying to get back to the top of the funicular, but found myself - twice! - at a chair to the west. The second time I decided to continue down a black run in hopes it would lead me to the funicular. A curious cement structure could be seen off to my left. I later ascertained that was the funicular rail. When I finally emerged below the cloud bank I was nearly back in St Moritz - sort of. I was not close to the van pick up point. I took a break, drank water, ate a snack, visited the WC. And to my chagrin decided to ride another chair back up into the "FOG!"

I rode chair 'L', Salastrains. What the #&$*#$@ was I thinking! For most of the ride I could barely see the chairs passing me on my left going down! While standing just off the chair, a ski patrol snowmobile with lights flashing arrives carring a couple of people. They'd obviously been 'rescued' from the "FOG!" and were going to ride the chair down. Many of the piste side blue poles have an SOS phone number on them.

Well...I'm not comfortable in this mess, but at least I'm not as freaked out as the last time down. I was determined to find the route to the top of the funicular. I saw someone standing below me. They looked lost too. She was talknig to someone unseeable but very nearby. I'd been to this place the whiteout before. It was a sign with the destination I wanted and arrows. Arrows that made no sense when you couldn't see a blue pole 20 meters away. I moved slowly looking at the directions of ski tracks in the snow below my skis because I couldn't see them further away. I watched for blue poles. The "FOG!" began to clear just a bit as I rounded a corner. I could here the sounds of lifts and people's voices. It might not be where I want to be, but at least it's civilization. Oh! I know where I am! This is the bottom of the Piz Nair tram! I was here first thing this morning. But which direction from here is the top of the funicular. No lie! I could hear sounds but see nothing! I didn't want to head off in the wrong direction now. I was so close! Moved slowly keeping my bearing on the direction to the tram despite it fading into the clouds. Some people were talking and then I could see an instructor pointing a direction in the "FOG!" to someone. I knew that someone was trying to find the funicular. Ah, another building I recognize. At last a mad dash for the top of the funicular. I'd say visibility was under 50 meters. This tight collection of buildings were hidden from each other in the clouds. It was 1:15PM by now. Still early, but I'd had enough.

I enjoyed some soak time in the steam room at the hotel.

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A dash of serendipity today. The weather forecast reported more clouds today than yesterday. Initially the thought of returning to the "FOG!" had me thinking of seeing what sights could be found in town. Yet, the sun was finding it's way through the clouds so at the last minute plans were changed and ski was donned.

Evelyn said that it was stormy in Chamonix so I figured it would reach here later.

Immediately I headed for the Piz Nair tram. Unlike yesterday, it was packed today! The wind was blowing on top but there were views to be taken in.

On the first chair down the mountain, I found myself riding with a father/son couple. They were primarily here for the Olympics sharing that excellent transportation was provided to various events and that the lodging costs in St. Moritz were dramatically less than say Cortina. They said places in Cortina were charging $2000 to $15000 per night. They were signed up for all kinds of events.

I kept my eye on the clouds. They came and went. The wind settled. It turned out to be an excellent day to be on the mountain with even a little fresh snow here and there.

I chose to ride another tram down into the section called St Moritz-BAD. I wandered over to the Forum Paracelsus. For me this spur of the moment exploration will mean more to me than skiing St Moritz. Inside this building that also houses a Nordic ski store are the remnants of a 3000BC+ spring water catch system. This set of ancient wooden pipes was discovered back in the 1800's when the spring was being cleaned out. There were bronze age artifacts found in connection with the spring. So here is the gem about St Moritz. The spring waters have been considered to have healing powers going back thousands of years. There appear to be at least two springs in the area: Mauritius and Paracelsus. The town and one of the springs is named after Saint Mauritius who lived circa 250AD. The pipes are connected with the Paracelsus spring which got its name from a 16th century physician Paracelsus who promoted the healing powers of the water. I was able to taste the water; it's carbonated (sparkling) with a strong mineral slightly sweet flavor. So long long before St Moritz was a ski destination for the wealthy, it was a place to come for the healing waters and spa treatments!